The 13th Shanghai Touhou Only live, sales event, and orchestra concert | 第十三回上海東方ONLY－琢火蝶－, Meizhi (魅知), and Huanzou (幻奏盛宴). Official site: https://thonly.name/2025/index.htmlFrom the perspective of the only American and probably only Western attendee.(It’s awkward to include honorifics when writing in English but it’s better than not including them.)
Prelude08/09: The sales event08/09: Orchestra concert08/10: The main eventRelated notesTravel blogNew York to TokyoTokyo to ShanghaiHilton Shanghai City CenterShanghai to TokyoTokyo to New YorkClosing thoughts
Prelude
The lineup was announced on June 7th and the performers for Diao ye zong (凋叶棕) on the 21st: Meramipop-sama (めらみぽっぷ様), Io-sama (いお様), and 3L-sama (3mazeL様).
Two years in a row! My second opportunity to attend a live in which Merami-sama was performing, in person. Apart from shoujo byou’s (少女病) last live in 2022 where no in-person audience was allowed due to COVID, this was only the second real opportunity to see her perform live since 2018.In fact, I had already booked a speculative flight for mid-August 2025 following last year’s live. Which I had to change since it was held a week earlier this year. It would be easier on attendees coming from farther away or who are just busy in general if the date were announced sooner, but I understand that’s not possible when the venue hasn’t even been decided/secured yet.
Looking ahead to 2026, the weekend before Comiket seems the most likely. We’ll see. Anyway, this time, my Chinese Visa was already taken care of, so there was nothing for me to do besides book a hotel and wait.
08/09: The sales event
The venue this time was on the top levels of a huge shopping center. To be honest, from where my DiDi (taxi) dropped me off outside of the building, the exact location wasn’t that easy to find. It was simple enough to follow the fumos and cosers, though. There were a lot of cosplayers!
Last year, neither Merami-sama nor Io-sama participated in the sales event so people were really excited that they would be exhibiting at their own booth this time. A rare opportunity to see them in person, especially for locals who can’t easily attend M3.
Hold on a second, Cosmopolitan isn’t a Touhou circle…? She brought some kachikachiyama (かちかち山) CDs to sell on consignment, which sold out quickly. I happened to bring the kachikachiyama T-shirt with me which I naturally wore to the event. The line for Cosmopolitan was about one hour long throughout the event. It was also a rare sighting of megane (眼鏡) Merami-sama… 😍(Technically, Cosmopolitan’s first release, a sample CD (めらくえⅠサンプル), has a bonus track which is a live clip of a Touhou arrangement. You can find the details in my spreadsheet. As that’s the only Touhou-related track, it’s not really a Touhou-related circle.)Merami-sama, Io-sama, thank you very much for signing these! (The “MADE FOR SHTHONLY” repress of DYZ’s nozomi (望) from last year and unico’s release from Spring M3.) I meant to bring Kurami (眩) but left it on my desk… It’s okay since the duet version of Warabe-Asobi (童遊) can be considered the main version now that it’s been performed live twice–it’s also Io-sama’s song now! I always carry around Merami’s latest CD from her personal circles. To really make the point that she’s my oshi (推し), or something.
Io-sama’s autograph has evolved since just a few months ago (from Spring M3, April 2025).
I lined up for Hanada-sensei’s (はなだひょう先生) space next since she had a limited-run copybook. Unfortunately, it sold out when I was just a few people from the front of the line… But thank you very much for drawing Reimu for me! I’ve spent a lot of time admiring Hanada-sensei’s art in DYZ booklets and the Somato (綜纏) series, but seeing her draw something in person was also an amazing experience. Speaking of Somato, issue 5 has been out of stock on Melonbooks for a while so I was a little surprised to see that it was available at the event. I bought a (second) copy so she could sign (draw) in it.
While walking past, I saw that there were many boxes behind the booth and only 4 different CDs being sold (one of which was Shirushi (記), which many people bought last year), so I wasn’t worried about the inventory running out. That’s why I went to DYZ’s space third. It was by far the most popular circle. The lines were so long throughout the event for the most popular circles, namely the Japanese ones, that staff were actively managing separate staging queues to the sides and bringing people over 5 at a time to the actual booths.
In a similar vein to last year, 3 more CDs were re-pressed as “MADE FOR SHTHONLY” editions. Left to right: katari (騙), itazura (徒), and tsutae (伝). Thank you again to RD-sama for signing nozomi and also for exchanging some words about FANBOX and the doujinshi below.
The next space was UESTC幻想乡 which is known for publishing in-depth ‘research project’ doujinshi spanning all of DYZ’s songs. The third volume was released earlier this year, which I took the opportunity to pick up in person instead of paying for shipping as I did for the prior volumes.
Lastly, I visited Shinra-Bansho’s (森羅万象) space to see if they had any other Chinese language re-presses. They did not. (「あの日の夢のアリス DAY DREAM」 has a re-pressed edition with Chinese text.)
08/09: Orchestra concert
(Posted in the QQ group by the organizer)
(Posted in the QQ group by the organizer)
I decided to attend this orchestra concert since there was nothing else planned for Saturday night and I was familiar with some of the pieces being performed: Shinra-Bansho’s 「Doppel」 and 「あの日の夢のアリス DAY DREAM」. Both the orchestra and the vocalists put on a great show. kaztora (Shinra-Bansho’s leader and arranger) also came on stage during an MC. It was nice to see many younger people in the audience, both in terms of being fans of Touhou Project and showing interest in classical music.
08/10: The main event
Same as last year, ticket holders first had to line up in the morning to get their numbered admission tickets. I was in the 200s. We then queued up to enter the venue at 12:30 pm and finally made it inside around 2:30 pm (no major delays this time). There was no seating in the venue, just one big floor. The total attendance was between 1,600 and 1,700.
Full setlist here.
I found a spot close to the front and near the center. Once everyone* (back to this later) was inside, the show began shortly. In a similar fashion to last year, the first song was the opening theme song, by most of the Chinese performers and even Youki-san (氧気), the organizer.
When the curtains were pulled back again, the first circle was revealed: DYZ was the first act again! Specifically, Merami-sama reprising her role as the top batter with a solo song! Pretty much every DYZ song is well-known, but 「竹ノ花」 is one of the most famous. And it’s almost 6 minutes long and extremely difficult to sing even standing still, much less while moving around on stage. If there’s anyone who can do it, it’s Merami-sama. And she did just that–sang beautifully and emotionally, as always.
Next up was Io-sama with a solo of her own! How very fitting that her first solo song on stage would be her first song recorded for DYZ: Something Shiny. As the person who is probably most familiar with Io-sama’s singing out of all her undoubtedly many fans now, I wasn’t surprised by her performance even last year. She only sang duets last year, though. This time, through her solo, she was really able to make an impression on everyone, and impress she did. This was only her second time ever performing live and her voice was already amazingly stable. Before, when indirectly referring to her, I used Io-san. From now on, it’s always Io-sama.
As expected, the pattern continued with the final vocalist for DYZ also performing a solo: 3mazeL-sama with 「一夜之夢」. She’s still as beloved as ever in China and commands the stage with confidence.
Next was the first duet: Merami-sama and Io-sama performing 「Dolls into Pitiful Pretenders」! Merami-sama had revealed on her FANBOX beforehand that this song would be part of the setlist, and that it would be a duet with Io-sama. You might even find that she posts things like clips from the studio, so go subscribe.Shortly before the live started, RD-sama asked Youki-san to post in the QQ group that everyone should be ready to sing along with this song. As one of the songs that I’ve been listening to on an almost daily basis for years, I was ready from the first line, but everyone chimed in naturally and on cue, starting from the first Reverie, Reverie.
That was amazing as expected, but surely there’s more, right? Would I have been happy to travel to the other side of the world to hear Merami-sama and Io-sama perform just three songs in total? Yes, and I would do that at any time, without hesitation. Based on last year’s setlist, though, everyone rightly assumed that there would be more. Speaking of last year’s setlist… it was 「Moon Jumper」 again! This song makes you feel like you can wave the penlights/light sticks/call sticks (call棒 in Chinese) endlessly. Although in reality I was already drained from the heat outside the venue, inside the waiting area, and even in front of the stage… I pushed myself to cheer properly for every act as they all deserved at least that much, but with only one arm rather than both after DYZ’s performance.
Leaving this here from last year: 「Moon Jumper」 was just as fun as last time, and はなだひょう-sensei’s illustration captures the moment perfectly.
If one song from last year’s setlist was performed again, then maybe there’ll be a second…?! As expected, the duet version of 「童遊」 is too good… Including Hanada-sensei’s art. While I couldn’t take my eyes off of Merami-sama, I did notice the art in the background. Hanada-sensei’s art has always been an important part of DYZ. It’s the combined geniuses of everyone involved that makes the circle so, so special.Leaving my words from last year here as well: Ah, this is it… The voice that I love, the flawless technique. Merami-sama’s singing will always be my favorite thing in the world.
As I did last year, having looked at the commemorative CD before the show started, I knew there was most likely at least one more song. But next was the MC where it was confirmed that there would be one more song. RD-sama (with the audience chanting アリス rather than needing any introduction) said a good amount in Chinese, and quite well at that. Smart people are naturally good at picking up languages when they put their mind to it.
The final song was another duet by Merami-sama and Io-sama: 「靴の音を、響かせて、その手を」. I had been expecting this song since the first live. It’s Meiling’s theme, the original theme has “Shanghai” in the title, and the song prominently features lyrics in Chinese. “我一直在这里等着你” (Wǒ yīzhí zài zhèlǐ děngzhe nǐ), the audience chimed in perfectly.
*Actually, not everyone had made it inside before the show started. Around 150 people missed the theme song and part of DYZ’s performance… The circle agreed and at the very end we were actually treated to an unplanned encore: a repeat performance of 「竹ノ花」! Thank you, Merami-sama, for being kind enough to perform such a difficult song again on the spot. I’m sure those 150-odd people still have regrets for missing the beginning, but you saved them from a lot of difficult feelings since they were at least able to hear one of your songs live.
People were tired by this point, but as one would expect, the room was filled with energy again when Merami-sama stepped back on the stage. At the very end, the Chinese performers sang the closing theme with every performer on stage.
Taken during the intermission
Quick comments about the rest of the show:Tengu no Mai (天狗ノ舞) was cool. I might be the only westerner who has this compilation CD that they participated in: 極東アウトブレイク 参. I mentioned in the QQ group chat that I want to hear 「罠」 from this CD at a future live and Youki-san agreed, so here’s hoping!
ZYTOKINE had an interesting setlist in that it was more of a medley than individual, full songs. itori-san was better than expected. I’m not sure why Linjin-san (隣人), who was also on stage DJing and directing the audience, decided to speak almost entirely in English. The level of Japanese proficiency in the room was definitely higher than that of English.
TsuBaKi… was noticeably louder than the other acts again. Their lively arrangements and the fact that they perform as a band make them suited to playing live, but I feel that the audio levels are an issue. (Last year, some people were covering their ears with their hands. That’s how loud it was.) I take protecting my hearing seriously, so I came prepared with these Etymotic High Fidelity Earplugs. They reduce noise without destroying the sound signature. Good act, just way too loud.
To be honest, I’m not a fan of the genre(s) of music DiGiTAL WiNG makes, but ふうか-san and 雨宿どみ乃-san were good on stage.
Renka-san only performed two songs this year as well. She’s good, though. If you played one of her songs blind to someone who isn’t familiar with both Chinese and Japanese, they’d probably never guess that Japanese isn’t her first language.
darkxixin-san impressed again. At least in my mind, she’s probably the best Chinese vocalist in the doujin music scene.
Shinra-Bansho is hugely popular in China as well and I was impressed by how well the fans knew the lyrics. Of course, Merami-sama has provided vocals for both ZYTOKINE and Shinra-Bansho in the past, so there was a lingering question in my head during their sets, but in the end she only performed for DYZ.
After the live, the Japanese circles set up booths for CD sales and autographs. Most of the audience stuck around and most of us who did flocked to wait in line for DYZ again. All 4 (including Hanada-sensei but not 3L-sama who was at her own circle’s booth) “members” (technically, RD-sama is the sole member of the circle but I’m using the term loosely here) were there. Thank you very much for signing the commemorative CD! I’m also glad that Merami-sama noticed the Foreground Eclipse T-shirt that I was wearing (the white one; I wore the black one last year). I probably won’t wear either FGE shirt in Shanghai again because they’re quite thick and evidently having adequate air conditioning is a big ask…
Related notes
After the Visa, the most important things to prepare for a trip to China are internet access and AliPay. A roaming/international data pass from your cellular provider should be inexpensive, eliminates the need for a VPN, and coverage is pretty good, although speeds may not be great even on 5G, at least for T-mobile. AliPay includes a built-in, English-compatible version of the DiDi aka Chinese Uber app. You can or even should/are expected to pay for just about everything with AliPay or WeChat Pay, which you can do after registering a foreign credit card and verifying your ID. The only restriction is that you cannot send money peer-to-peer; you can receive money and make payments to business accounts.
The QQ groups for the events are useful. Not only do the organizers directly post information and announcements, but the general attendees are also helpful.Normally, it’s not possible to register for QQ without an SMS-capable Chinese phone number. I don’t know if any free/cheap online services might work for it, but even if you are able to complete initial registration, there remains the question of future problems/continued access. These numbers typically don’t last long, so if you need to receive a code via SMS in the future, you’re probably out of luck. That’s why I opted to pay for a more long-term solution via 3HK, at around $19/year for an 86 number.I may have been the only Westerner who attended this time. There was at least one person from Taiwan and Korea, and several Japanese attendees.
Travel blog
The itinerary:
New York (JFK) to Tokyo (HND), ~7,300 miles and ~14 hours. Half day in Tokyo to hunt for some old CDs (no luck).
Tokyo (HND) to Shanghai (PVG), ~1,100 miles and ~3 hours.
Hotel: Hilton Shanghai City Center, 3 nights
Shanghai (SHA) to Tokyo (HND), ~1,100 miles and ~3 hours.
Tokyo (HND) to New York (JFK), ~7,100 miles and ~13 hours.
New York to Tokyo
There is a single direct flight from New York to Shanghai, but I wanted to connect via Tokyo since I could spend some time there without increasing the total number of days my trip would take. This time, I flew ANA’s famous business class dubbed “The Room” on their Boeing 777-300ER. Not my first time, so I didn’t think to take any pictures except of the new washoku (和食) meal and obligatory curry (which is vegan but still tasty). The flavor of the sukiyaki was good, but the beef wasn’t great. I love a good yokan (羊羹) but this one was a bit too sweet for me. Come to think of it, my local Japanese grocery store carries the same brand.
Tokyo to Shanghai
After arriving in the morning and leaving my suitcases (an extra empty one for snacks) in a coin locker at the airport, I took a train out east and relaxed and had breakfast at a cafe for a little while. I then spent several hours visiting some stores to look for certain old CDs, but without any luck. (Some stores like Lashinbang may have online shops, but not every location’s inventory is necessarily online.)I returned to Haneda in the afternoon, took a shower in ANA’s lounge, and waited for my flight.Not my first time to PVG, but it was my first time on a Boeing 767-300ER. This leg was also in ANA’s business class. The picture is from row 3–there’s no first class on these planes. Was I tired? Maybe, judging from how I took the picture without taking the lid off of the entree… Which was a hamburg steak and not very good. The other dishes were a bit fishy.
Hilton Shanghai City Center
Honestly, a rather disappointing experience for a “five-star” hotel carrying the Hilton name. While I can’t complain too much about the hardware for the price (around $150/night including taxes), it wasn’t very clean despite being a fairly newly renovated property. From the windows to the upholstery to the elevator buttons (which went days without being cleaned!).I had emailed the front desk ahead of time to let them know that I’d be receiving a package before arrival (the ticket for the orchestra concert). At check-in, I forgot to mention this, but they should have noticed the note on my account. I got to my room and the package wasn’t there, so I called the front desk to ask about it. They sent it up via robot, which was neat. But when I do the same at even a 3-star hotel in Japan, the package is waiting in my room by the time I check in.Not that I care for the service, but I don’t think I even saw a porter while I was checking in, much less had someone offer to bring my suitcase to my room. At the Shangri-La I stayed at last year, a porter practically snatched my suitcase away and brought it up while I was checking in. At the 3-star hotel in Tokyo, the bags that I had dropped off before check-in were waiting in my room when I came back.The breakfast buffet had decent variety, I guess, at least in terms of Chinese food. Not much in the way of Western options (none of which were good), or fruit. I was brave enough to try the Italian-themed main restaurant for dinner service before going to the orchestra concert… That was a mistake.Oh, and the number for room service didn’t work. The WeChat QR code did.I will probably consider staying at a Shangri-La instead next time.
Shanghai to Tokyo
This time, I was flying out of SHA for the first time so I took some pictures. Second and third photos from China Eastern’s lounge in terminal 1. It was also my first time on a 787-10, which is a great and modern plane. ANA business class again. Also no first class on this plane. The entree was good but the jellyfish side dish and the fruit cream-filled mochi were not good.
Tokyo to New York
ANA business class on the 777 again. I skipped the main meal to sleep since this was a late night departure (sleep first third to half of the flight, stay awake for the rest, get home at night, go to sleep normally, no jetlag). I made sure to try the new katsu curry dish, though. It’s also vegan… The cutlet part wasn’t particularly good or bad but the curry was good. Normally, a spoon is the most common utensil for eating curry, with chopsticks or a fork sometimes added in. I wonder if the flight attendant figured I was jouzu (上手) with hashi (箸)–I am–or if this is how they usually serve it.
Closing thoughts
All three events were great (I didn’t attend Party Night on Friday). Everything is run well and it’s a relatively affordable place to travel to in terms of food, lodging, and local transportation costs, at least. I spent about 700 RMB or $100 USD on 10 DiDi rides which averaged maybe 20 minutes long, including to/from the airports. The weather is tough during summer, but worth braving! I highly recommend it to anyone who is able to go. If you have a serious interest in attending in the future, feel free to reach out to me on X/Twitter (@Merami_fan).
Lastly, thank you to all of the performers, staff, and everyone else who made it such a wonderful weekend! 再见！
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